Transcription

Whilst copying out Ethelbert's diary, the occasional word, comma etc has been added to improve readability. Any major changes have been indicated by comments in italics.

 

The various names mentioned throughout the diary may, in some cases, be spelt incorrectly, due to the difficulty reading them. Corrections to any mistakes would be very welcome. Click the Contact link to get in touch. The dates, written as titles, have been added for ease of reading.

 

(Philip J Barden, November 2006)

 

 

June 5th 1919

"On June 5th at 4am we started on our voyage to North Russia, from Victoria Docks, London. We are part of the North Russian Relief Expeditionary force and our unit is the Hospital Corps. The boat on which we sailed is one of the Belle Company boats, ours the London Belle, and another which sailed with us, the Walton Belle. These boats are fitted out as River Hospital Carriers. The London Belle had 165 beds, the Walton not quite so many.

 

"The fitting out of these paddle steamers incurred great expense, everything being done to ensure the comfort of the patients. If only some consideration had been shown for the crew and sick berth ratings, life on board would have been lived with some degree of comfort. Apparently such mundane thoughts did not trouble the Admiralty, hence, from the very start, all loudly expressed dissatisfaction and dissentions were the order of the day.

 

"The provisioning arrangements too were most unsatisfactory and gave a conclusive instance of government mismanagement. We were not a day out of port before we were out of bread. The boat was tied up to a buoy off Sheerness, and myself, with two others of our staff, went ashore to buy food. Another cause of complaint was the utter lack of washing accommodation. This was particularly inconvenient for the stokers, and greasers, who had to bathe every time they came off duty. At last a couple of buckets were found. There were no brooms or brushes provided, indeed nothing was served out to us for cleanliness and comfort.

 

June 6th 1919

"The voyage was continued on the 6th at 6pm. North Shields being our next port of call, where we arrived the next day. Our stay at Shields was most enjoyable giving us opportunities of visiting Newcastle and South Shields. It was at North Shields too where the discontent of crew and staff found open expression. Lining up on the top deck in front of the Captain's cabin we demanded to state our grievances. The Captain appeared and our case presented to him. The stokers and greasers absolutely refused to take the ship to sea unless great alterations were made both in regard to food and accommodation. At last definite promises were made that these matters would be remedied. The crew then returned to duty. Taking advantage of leave being granted we visited places of interest in the neighbourhood.

 

"Getting on a tram some little distance from the quay I had a nice ride to Newcastle and was well repaid. Fine buildings, streets and gardens and favoured with bright sunshine combined to give a very good impression of this city. It happened to be Whit Monday. The streets were thronged, everyone apparently bent on a days enjoyment. The weather was at its best behaviour, the glorious sunshine making the faces bright with gladness. One place, which claimed special attraction, is Jesmond Dene, a great natural park. Crowds of people gathered there for the day. In one part there is an open-air theatre and various other amusements. The lakes were very popular with the children. One regrettable incident occurred which marred the pleasure of a few holidaymakers. A little girl leaning over a high bank overbalanced and fell into the water. She would certainly have been drowned but for a sailor who chanced to be passing. He immediately went in and got her out. Except for the soaking neither were any the worse. It must have been very uncomfortable for the sailor. Jack always appears to be at hand when wanted.

 

"On the opposite bank to where our boat was lying is South Shields. I was fortunate in being able to visit this place several times and some very pleasant hours were spent on the sands, which extend far out and along the coast. The corporation has reclaimed some hundreds of acres from the sea and transformed the sands into parks and gardens. It reminds one of Southport. They have been somewhat spoilt by military operations. Gun emplacements have been erected and other parts commandeered for camps etc. Although the expense of reclamation was certainly heavy, yet the results have amply justified the expenditure.

 

June 12th 1919

"Early on the morning of the 12th some little excitement was caused by hearing loud cries of "ship ahoy". We could not see who was calling for some time but at last we discovered a man in the water astern of us holding onto a 'scope with one hand and a bicycle with the other. He had been riding along the quay wall when he was tripped up by a stone and thus had an early morning dive. He was rescued by one of our seamen, named Pat, a typical Irishman.

 

June 13th 1919

"On the 13th of June at 4.30am we left for Aberdeen. It was a good trip and without incident except that about half-way across the engine bearings became overheated, making it necessary to lie-to for them to cool. This delayed us about two hours.

 

Reaching Aberdeen at 6pm the same day we tied up alongside the quay to go through the usual experience of cooling and watering. Being allowed ashore we paid an evening visit to this interesting city. Aberdeen is a very fine town. Its fish quays are marvellously clean and well arranged. The streets too are kept in splendid order. Its system of tramways is one of the best I've seen. Union Street is a street of which any city might well be proud. Fine commercial buildings of granite give a most imposing and substantial appearance to this wide thoroughfare, speaking of prosperity and progress. We all hope to visit Aberdeen again.

 

"I went for a long tram ride to the Dee valley and was well repaid. One thing amused me both in Newcastle and Aberdeen in connection with the trams:- viz. The corporations issue ½d tram fares, both for soldiers and sailors. It is very considerate of them. We appreciate greatly these acts of consideration. Speaking generally, wherever we went, the people were always kindly disposed towards us; there was scarcely an exception.

 

June 15th 1919

"The boat left port for Lerwick, in the Shetlands, on June 15th at 4.15am, arriving at 10.15pm the same day. The weather was fine but cold. Lerwick is a place of some importance; there are some good-sized buildings. Unfortunately we were not allowed ashore because (so we were given to understand) of the misdeeds of former sailors, overstaying their leave etc, thus delaying the sailing of their ships, a very serious offence in the navy.

 

"We made the best of our stay and a boatman kindly did all he could for us in bringing goods from the shore. We were highly interested in watching the thousands of fish playing about the paddle wheels. We tried to catch them with all sorts of improvised fishing tackle, potato nets, coal sacks etc, but we were not very successful. Two small fish were the total results. We need not have troubled for fish could be bought cheap enough. A box of Kippers for 3/6, 72 large fish for 3/- and the sailors bought a large skate weighing some 60 or 70lb. The fish made a very welcome change from the continuous bully beef and biscuits.

 

"The provisioning of this ship is a positive disgrace to those responsible, also the absolute lack of accommodation for bathing and cleansing. So bad was the accommodation for the crew, and the food for us all, that at Shields the whole company lined up on the top deck to see the Captain and absolutely refused to take the ship to sea unless things were remedied. On the Captain faithfully promising to carry out some improvement the crew proceeded to their duties. It is needless to say that the promise was not fully carried out. I do not think that any of the sick berth staff would have gone to sea had they known the conditions under which they had to sail.

 

June 17th 1919

"We left Lerwick on the 17th at 5am for Norway. The North Sea was wonderfully kind to us and except for a heavy ground swell there was nothing to complain about. Crossing the North Sea there is some danger of striking floating mines. Our old pack had a narrow escape from two. One passed within a few yards of her port paddle box.

 

"We reached the coast of Norway about noon, arriving at Aalsund, our first port of call, in the evening at 8pm. We were allowed ashore. Everyone was very kind to us. Crowds of people lined the quay to watch our arrival. Aalsund is a charming little town of some 3,000 inhabitants. At one of the cafés the proprietress kindly made our party some excellent coffee with plenty of milk and sugar, also beef and cheese sandwiches, all of which was very enjoyable. This was about 9 o'clock in the evening. Business did not really begin till after 12 when the theatres opened and people turned out to enjoy themselves. The view from a little café perched high on a rock was magnificent.

 

June 19th 1919

"The boat left Aalsund at 8am on the 19th. All the way the trip through these Norwegian fjords and between the numerous islands was a real delightful treat and I for one stayed on deck as much as possible. We had very little sleep because it never got dusk and sleep seemed out of the question when amongst such beautiful scenery and with such glorious sunshine. At the foot of the high rocks and hills we noticed numerous patches of bright green grass and funny little houses painted in vivid colours - red, green, yellow and some white making a most picturesque scene.

 

"Arriving at Christiansund the same day at 1.30 we anchored some distance from the shore. The people here did not seem quite as hospitable as those at Aalsund, but perhaps it was mere imagination. It is a much larger city and quite a charming place with its varied colours, architecture and peculiar positions of the buildings. As usual we took on board coal and water. No one was sorry to leave Christiansund.

 

June 20th 1919

"At 7am on June 20th the next stage in our journey was commenced. From now onwards the country near the sea became more fertile. Trees covered the lower slopes of the hills. Villages and fishing centres became more frequent. Little patches of cultivated ground were noticeable and the pretty white churches dotted here and there made the whole scene from Christiansund to Bodo very beautiful. I think we enjoyed our short stay at this place more than at any other thus far. One or two of the people could speak fluent English. Two gentlemen took me to their home and entertained me to tea. One peculiar item of diet was the sweet cheese, which was very appetizing. Perhaps this was because I had been living on ships biscuits and bully beef so long. As usual crowds of folk lined the quay to greet us and send us off with good wishes.

 

June 22nd 1919

"On the 22nd at 3.30pm we left Bodo for Tromso arriving at 8pm the same day. It was an enjoyable trip although it was a bit choppy when we got to the open sea. This was only for a few hours for we were soon amongst the islands again and into calm water. Tromso is in the Vest Fjord. We were not allowed ashore at this port but as one looked at it, some little distance off, the town had a clean and prosperous appearance. Our stay here was only for a few hours, just to take on coal and water. While lying there the tug Flying Foam from Murmansk came alongside and reported passing through a severe storm, also that she had sighted our sister ship the Walton Belle which had preceded us by some 12 hours. She had to take shelter in the nearest port. The Flying Foam carried our mails to England.

 

June 23rd/24th 1919

"Proceeding from Tromso at 5pm on the 23rd we arrived at Hammerfest the most northerly port in the world early in the morning of the 24th. This night I had my first view of the midnight sun. Hammerfest is a quaint little town and just at the back of it there is a very high hill on the other side of which is a lake, which was still frozen over. There was also plenty of snow. On Midsummer Day our lads had the unique experience of a good game of snowball. The entire absence of trees, shrubs etc give this region a very desolate and forlorn appearance. There are just one or two tiny wild flowers. In the windows one notices a few plants such as geraniums, ivy and carnations. The only relief to the monotonous aspects are the varied coloured houses. I noticed that in several of these Norwegian towns many of the houses had thick turf on the roof and long grass growing. The reason, so the people said, was to keep the interior warm during the winter. Coming up through these fjords there are many tiny little lighthouses perched on the points of rocks. These lighthouses are about as tall as a man and painted white. They are all connected with an electric station, lighting automatically.

"On June 24th at 10pm we left Hammerfest. All the population seemed to be on the pier to watch our departure. The skipper threw them all into a state of excitement by giving three tremendous blasts on the siren. It was amusing to see them crowding around the paddle box to watch the wheels revolve. One young urchin was caught actually crawling through one of the openings and was just rescued in time. It must have been a rare occurrence to see a paddle steamer. To them the London Belle was a very big ship. Many of them came aboard before we sailed. They admired the hospital beds (of which there are 156) and other arrangements for the reception of patients. The 18,000 horsepower engines were a source of wonder and fascination to the male portion of the visitors.

 

"Proceeding on our way towards the Murmansk coast we approached the most northerly cape in the world (North Cape). It is here that the best view of the midnight sun is to be obtained. We were particularly fortunate. Although there was a strong wind blowing the sun was unclouded. One of the finest sights I've seen was on this night at 12 o'clock, as bright and clear as a midsummer day in England. One of my mates took my photo on the upper deck just as the clock struck twelve. Both of us stayed on the deck till about 1am. It then became too rough so we turned into our hammocks.

 

June 25th/26th 1919

"As the morning advanced the wind increased so much that it was impossible for us to weather the North Cape. The course of the ship was altered to starboard and passing between some islands tried to escape the storm. The pilot should have been transferred to the mail steamer, which was sighted about 3am, but the rough sea made it altogether impossible. Our boat was now shipping a lot of water so we flew for shelter into a little fjord where is the small fishing village of Kjolly. We anchored here on the 25th. Just before entering this fjord a small tug was sighted apparently having a rough time of it. Sometimes her screw was some feet out of the water and it appeared as though she was nose-diving down below. There is only provisions, water and coal enough for two days. Unless the storm abates we must about ship and return to Hammerfest for fresh supplies. The ships steward tells me this morning that the last of the margarine has been issued. To atone for that a great surprise was sprung on us. The cook has actually made some bread. Of course this might have been done before, had it but occurred to the provisions department. The crews are anxious to know whether the treat is to be continued.

 

"Towards the morning of the 26th the storm slackened and we left Kjolly Fjord at 7am. The wind freshened up again and very soon the storm was worse than before and the poor old London Belle was having her roughest experience. Her starboard paddle wheel almost came off, her decks sprung and altogether things began to look awkward. The Captain tried to enter a little port called Vassoe, but no pilot answered our signals and after getting somewhat knocked about the Captain steamed ahead for Vardo, which was reached at midnight in beautiful sunshine. Crowds were waiting on the quay. In this part of the world the people take full advantage of the short summer time. The life of these Norwegian towns seems to commence after eleven at night when the folk come out for their pleasures. Vardo does the largest fishing trade in Norway. It is a dirty, dusty little town of about 3,700 inhabitants. There is always an intolerable small of fish and glue pervading the place. There are no trees or shrubs growing here. In a very few gardens just a limited number of flowers that we are accustomed to see in England such as tulips, daffodils, wallflowers etc. Not many wildflowers can be found, some small pink and white moss blooms, a yellow flower like a buttercup and one very much like our wild anemone appears to exhaust the catalogue. Provisions, clothing, ironmongery and in fact everything is very dear, excepting matches and fish. Margarine is 3/6, tea 5/-, boots 45/- to 50/- and other things proportionally expensive.

 

 

June 27th/28th 1919

"I had a very enjoyable walk across the island, which is pretty in some parts. There are peat bogs covering a considerable portion. The peat is dug, dried and used for fuel. A good deal of snow was still lying in the hollows. The night of the 27th and 28th was beautiful and the midnight sun shone with exceptional brilliance, not a cloud in the sky. Leaving Vardo at 1.10am we proceeded towards the Murmansk coast reaching the depot ships HMS Glory T at 5pm on the 28th and we anchored off the town of Alexandrovsk. After the stormy passage from Hammerfest to Vardo, the voyage through the still island waters was very agreeable. It is a beautiful 'night' of sunshine again, sleep seems out of the question. The weather is very hot and we are constantly tormented by swarms of mosquitoes. The welcome message has just come through that peace was signed at 3 o'clock today. This was duly celebrated in the usual naval fashion by the blowing of the sirens of all the ships in harbour. Our little steamer seemed to make the biggest noise of all the lot. After this there came the splicing of the main brace and all who wished had a double tot of rum.

 

June 29th 1919

"Today, the 29th (Sunday), the ship was coaled and the tanks filled with water. We also took aboard some American officers and men. At 10pm the voyage of 500 miles to Archangel was commenced. Night was calm, cool and clear. I stayed on deck till about 1 o'clock watching the midnight sun and the beautiful scenery. Before leaving Alexandrovsk there was a good deal of bargaining with some Russian sailors and seamen off the boats lying close to us. Sometimes the scene was quite exciting. They were apparently eager to buy anything, especially articles of clothing. The great regret of us all was that we had not brought a good supply of old civilian clothes and boots. Such things as these fetched a lot of money. It is all paper money some being issued by the British government which is of the value of 6d per rouble and some issued by the Russian government which is 3d per rouble. 100 kopeks go to the rouble.

 

"In beautiful weather we passed through the White Sea, our boat steaming well at 15 knots. If the provisioning of the ship had only been better all would have been just A1, as it was the bad food spoilt it all. We have had no margarine or potatoes for several days. Fish for breakfast, fish for tea, fish for supper, bully beef dished up in a variety of forms each worse than the other. This has been the daily routine except that today we were given salt junk, which apparently must have been part of the provisions of Nelson's fleet. During the cooking of this salt junk the whole ship was permeated with an intolerable odour but this was mild torture compared to what we passed through when the stuff was put on the table and cut up. Two or three plucked up courage enough to try and eat it after it had been thoroughly disinfected with pepper, mustard, sauce and pickles but they soon gave up the struggle.

 

"10pm - The real history of this salt pork has just come to light. It was not part of Nelson's provisions but when alive it was closely related to the herd that ran violently down a steep hill and was drowned in the midst of the sea, hence its saltiness. This pork was found during dredging operations. In future, gas masks have to be worn in consequence of the odoriferous perfume that emanates from it during the process of cooking. Once a man succumbs to this overpowering perfume his recovery is very slow and tedious.

 

July 1st 1919

"July 1st. Arrived at Archangel at 6.30pm. The course up the river was interesting. Many miles of timber ready for shipment were passed. This timber comes down the river in tremendous rafts towed by little tugboats; it is then drawn up into one of the numerous sawmills and cut into different lengths and thickness. On reaching Archangel half the watch were allowed ashore. My watch was aboard. Ones first impressions of the city from the river is an appreciative one but this appreciation goes somewhat of a change after visiting its streets and seeing the houses etc. There were the first evening shadows at the close of this day. They were welcome for somehow, after all, one misses the darkness of night with its sleep and rest. Lying in the hammock this evening I saw one of the most gorgeous sunsets I've ever witnessed. All the colours imaginable. Red, pale green, purple, yellow, just a tinge of pink, and then a blue making a most exquisite picture. Not that the sun set completely, for the night is not dark, just like the commencement of a summers evening at home. The slanting beams of sunlight falling on the golden domes and minarets of the mosques and churches with the multitude of shipping on the wide river, as the foreground, made a most picturesque scene.

 

July 2nd 1919

"July 2nd. Moored close to the Garth Castle in mid-stream.

 

July 3rd 1919

"On the 3rd we moved up the river about 7 miles to Solombola for coal. Whilst lying at the wharf we were much interested in watching the Russian women in their boats bringing milk etc from the outlying farms. The milk they carry in little yellow tubs, and other produce in wide chip baskets. Five of the women came aboard and down into our cabin with milk. They did not want roubles, only food, soap or whiskey. Whiskey we had not got but for two pieces of soap (about a pound together), a few pieces of Bully beef, two or three crusts of bread and a little cooked rice we had about 6 gallons of very nice milk. It was a most welcome change from the yellow water of the Ovina, which we had had to drink.

 

"There is a tramway system from Solombola to Archangel. The cars are very good and run smoothly. The fare is 2 roubles for a distance of some 4 miles. The cars are about the only things that do run smoothly for the roads are terrible. Many of the side roads are soft and spongy and covered with thick grass. A wooden pavement runs either down the centre or along the sides. The main road is covered with rough cobblestones. Ruts, some of them 2 feet deep, are frequent but the drosky drivers take no notice of such trifles, they drive straight on and the poor passenger reaches the end of the journey bruised and shaken. The park is the place of attraction. Crowds gather to hear the band and do their courting during the evening. Along the Troitsky Prospect is a capital YMCA doing good work for the troops. They have a fine lending library greatly appreciated by the men. We could not take advantage of it because our movements are so erratic. It is a puzzle to know how the people manage to live considering the high cost of food and clothing. Oranges were 15 Russian roubles, cheese 12/- to 14/- a lb, chocolate 60 Russian roubles. Clothing of all descriptions is scarce and expensive. Whiskey is 60/- a bottle, eggs 3/- each, cup of tea or coffee 8 to 10 roubles, plate of ice cream 20 roubles (would be 6d in England). Everything is dear.

 

July 4th 1919

"July 4th. Some excitement was caused this evening by a biggish fire close to the wharf. All the houses, with but few exceptions, are built of wood and this one was a very large one and it burnt merrily. Fire engines were soon on the spot. These engines are amusing contrivances. A big barrel fastened to a kind of timber wagon with a hand pump behind. This lot is drawn by three little Tartar ponies. There was one really up to date engine, one of Shard, mason's electric power machines that soon had the fire under control.

 

"Before leaving Solombola we had quite an exciting experience. At low tide the boat had drifted under the timbers of the wharf, and as the water rose, her sponsons became wedged. A tug was requisitioned to pull us off but in doing this we took a great portion of the wharf with us doing a very considerable amount of damage. Our next berth was near the Garth Castle. Rumour is busy again concerning the future of our packet. One is to the effect that as our boat draws too much water we are to be used as a stationary over-flow hospital ship. Another is that the boat with several others is being sent back to England.

 

"I went ashore today and had a good ramble about the city. The condition of the roads is terrible in the extreme. The pluck of anyone who rides a motorcar or a motorcycle through Archangel is admirable and I admired the few I saw. My visit to one of the churches was perhaps of more interest than anything else. The few worshippers who were there at this early hour of the afternoon were apparently most sincere. The Russian people as a whole are profoundly religious and the influence of the priests is exceedingly strong. One meets these priests in almost every street, tall men as a rule, with long beard and hair. Dressed in long flowing gowns and tall hats. Their expressionless faces and peculiar garb gives them a very grotesque appearance, something like a very antiquated Father Christmas, only in black instead of white.

 

July 5th 1919

"July 5th. The Captain was taken ill today and I had the misfortune to have a night watch on him. It was a wet, stormy night.

 

July 6th 1919

"July 6th. (Sunday). Warm with brilliant sunshine. Watch aboard. First mail arrived after leaving England. Letters were posted on June 15th. Later in day there was heavy rain.

 

July 7th 1919

"July 7th. Braemar Castle was expected today with more mails. Have been told we are to go off on a small paddle steamer SS Smaillie hospital carrier, to go some 160 miles up the river to evacuate some wounded soldiers from a place called Pinega. Probably shall be gone some weeks.

 

July 8th 1919

"July 8th. No mails. Had a most enjoyable afternoon and evening in Archangel.

 

 

July 9th 1919

"On July 9th our little steamer proceeded up the river at 10am for Pinega. Picked up stores from SS Aro and SS Bacchus. We left at 2pm. The scenery up the river is very beautiful. The weather too is all that can be desired. The Ovina is very wide and for some 70 to 80 miles up, the current is slow, about 5 knots an hour. The evening is far advanced as we near the first stage of our journey. The rays of the setting sun are reflected in the smooth water on our left and the moon is showing up on our right. It is a rare treat. The white churches with their green and brown spires, which we pass at intervals, are exquisitely picturesque. In some of the villages there are queer little windmills looking very quaint and reminding one of Dutch scenes. The scent from the pinewoods, which comes floating on the evening air is deliciously sweet and invigorating. It seems scarcely possible that we are in the war area all is so still and quiet. Our little craft tried to pile herself on a sandbank about nine o'clock but floated off again shortly before 10. The staff of the boat consists of a surgeon Lieutenant, my mate Ernest Stanford and myself. There is crew of ten. My mate and I agreed that this first day on the SS Smaillie is the happiest day we've had since joining the MMR. Life on board the London Belle was most unhappy and uncomfortable. All the staff seemed to be continually at variance one with the other. This is a most welcome change.

 

"We arrived at Ust Pinega (mouth of Pinega river) at 3am. Had rather a rough night of it. My mate was very unwell. Also there were more visitors than we cared for. Thanks to Keatings we were relieved of their attentions. The weather is extremely hot. Gnats, flies, dragonflies and other insects apparently aware that we were new arrivals gathered in great force to welcome us. The river is falling rapidly and it will be impossible for us to ascend the river as far as Pinega itself that is 100 miles further up. The Bolos are busy around us just now.

 

July 10th 1919

"July 10th. Rain today, the first for some time. It did not last long but helped to cool the air a little. It is very hot. The cabin is too close and stuffy so we are sleeping on the deck. We had to cover ourselves with mosquito netting.

 

July 11th 1919

"July 11th. Had a delightful nights sleep. There was a heavy thunderstorm today. When it had cleared I paid a visit to the village, and went into some of the houses, which were very clean. Saw the girls and lads playing a game of baseball.

 

July 12th 1919

"July 12th. It was extremely hot today. Troops left for Pinega across country, about 75 miles, Bolos have been attacking. They paid this village a visit a few days since.

 

July 13th 1919

"July 13th. Another hot day and the only place to keep cool is bathing in the river. Expecting to take sick and wounded to Archangel either today or tomorrow. Have just heard that the enemy entered the village again last night carrying off one of the civil guard. During the day, in spite of the terrific heat, regimental sports were held in the camp. Trenches have been dug; sandbag defences and gun emplacements have been erected facing the north. Tonight at 10.30 we went several miles up the Pinega River to take in wood. All these river steamers burn wood instead of coal. The wood is sawn up into pieces of from 2 to 4 feet in length, they are then split into halves and quarters, this is done principally by women. Indeed it seemed to me that women did most of the heavy work. After the wood is chopped it is put into stacks on the riverbanks. When a Captain requires wood he stops his boat near these stacks, measures off how much he wants and pays for it when he reaches the next village or destination. It is difficult for him to dodge payment for the authorities know how much his bunkers hold and how long it will last. Also all vessels are checked up and down the river. The man in charge of the wood section also knows how much wood has been taken and what steamers have passed during the day.

 

"Some girls brought down two badly wounded soldiers in canoes. These girls left their village some 45 miles up the river at 4 o'clock in the morning arriving at Ust Pinega at 6 in the evening. During their passage down they passed through a heavy thunderstorm, which soaked both them and their patients. Everybody admired the pluck and stamina of these young girls for of course there was the return journey to be made. Beside the wounded men they brought the wife of one man (a Mrs Schilling). The thunderstorm reached us in due course and almost washed away our little sickbay. The downpour was terrific. Later on I went ashore further up the Pinega River and gathered some beautiful wild flowers. Many of these are just like our English wild flowers. Also there are plenty of redcurrants, raspberries, bilberries and other fruits, including strawberries. Russia is a wonderful country with vast resources, which need development.

 

July 14th 1919

"July 14th. Today we took on sick and wounded at 10am. The two wounded Russians amongst them. One was shot in both arms, right knee and breast the other in the jaw, breast and shoulder. Fine looking men both of them. The wife also came. Five officers, five men and two orderlies completed the list. Left Usk Pinega at 10.45 arriving at Archangel at 7.45 the same day. The officers were evacuated to Somalic Quay, the remainder we took down to the 85th General Hospital at Solombola. Returned from there to Somalic Quay at 12.45, and tied up at 1.45am.

 

July 15th 1919

"July 15th. Left Archangel for Ust Pinega at 11.14am. During the afternoon quite an exciting little episode broke the monotony. The sparks from the funnel set alight to the stretchers stacked on the roof of the sick bay. Soon the lot was burning merrily. Fortunately one of the crew noticed it and a few buckets of water brought the firework display to a finish. Three of the stretchers were destroyed. This is one of the contingencies we have to guard against when the boat is steaming. Large flakes of red-hot wood fly out of the funnel. Presently one awakes to the fact that the coat, cap or hair is on fire and the occasional hot cinder dropping down the back helps to keep things lively. It is interesting to notice the various customs and habits of the Russian people. The women do their washing by the riverside. It is the women too who bring the produce and manufactures to the market, they also do most of the field work and agriculture labour. As a rule the men seem to be walking about and smoking. They are rough bearded fellows generally with a scowl on their face and almost inevitably dirty. Occasionally one is seen well dressed, clean and especially so if they have been in the army. The people drink their 'chi' (tea) from tumblers, without milk. At first I wondered what it was they were drinking, it looked like a pale wine, they soon told me it was 'chi'. Other drinks are difficult to get and very expensive. If a Russian enters into conversation with an English sailor almost the first thing he asks for is whiskey, rum and tobacco. His idea apparently is that we drink very little else but spirits and that it is our general custom to get drunk. "Anglisky minorga wiskey" he will say (that is "English have plenty whiskey"). So much for the general impression of Angliskey. The weather continues excessively hot although it is not quite so oppressive while steaming up the river. Stopped to bunker at a little village about five miles from Pinega. Soon the entire company of inhabitants were on the beach to see who we were and to 'skulka' some 'milaka'. This was 12 midnight but as light as day.

 

July 16th 1919

"Left again at 1.30am July 16th, reaching Pinega at 2.30. News arrived that the Bolos have raided our communication lines about 20 miles from here. As far as we know the attack was repulsed.

 

July 17th 1919

"July 17th. There was great excitement today upon the arrival of a NACB barge. This will enable us to buy a few more luxuries making a change from macaroni or bully beef. Large supplies of stores, guns, ammunition, troops etc landed here today making a great addition to the camp. Had a beautiful and delightful walk along the cliffs bringing back with me a nice lot of blueberries. Several officers came in for dinner today. Our cooking was quite successful. We gave them a five course dinner. The bilberries were enjoyed by them all. We also cooked a berry like a blackberry in shape but in colour yellow and pink. Did not care for them a great deal there were too many seeds.

 

"The funeral took place today of a RE soldier who was killed several days ago. The men have a habit when taking their horses for a wash in the river of hanging on to their tails. This is all right if the horse is swimming but a dangerous game if standing in the water. It was so in this case. The man was bathing and hanging on to the horse's tail when it kicked out striking him in the forehead stunning him. He sank and was carried out by the strong current. His body came ashore three days later. It was intended to bury him in the churchyard and a grave was dug but at the last moment the priest objected. So he was taken to a little cemetery outside the village and buried there with full military honours.

 

July 18th 1919

"July 18th. The weather continues very hot although there is a little breeze, which makes it somewhat more bearable. Still lying at Ust Pinega. The natives take full advantage of our fellows camping here. I tried to buy some 'yates' (eggs) they asked 4 Russian roubles (1/-) each. Some excitement was caused today, by an aeroplane circling around the camp and dropping a message, we understand it was an urgent one from Pinega.

 

"The nights are gradually getting darker. The sun set at 10 o'clock tonight and it was a magnificent spectacle. We sleep on the deck in preference to the cabin, which is too stuffy. Although there was a heavy thunderstorm one night yet I slept on the deck with a couple of oilskins over me.

 

July 19th 1919

"July 19th. Gathered a fine lot of bilberries this afternoon. Left Ust Pinega for Bereznik at 4pm. It seemed likely that we should have some trouble with our Captain who had made up his mind that he was going to Pinega (where his home is) and he did not like going to Bereznik which is right up in the fighting line. Eventually he cooled down and we proceeded on our course. I lost our stiff broom overboard today which is a sad loss for brooms are scarce and difficult to get. We are passing some magnificent country. On the shore the people are very busy haymaking and harvesting. The girls in their varied bright colours, the beautiful forests and glorious sunshine make a brilliant panorama. It is a pleasurable trip altogether, a nice cool breeze is blowing, tempering the heat and making the day most enjoyable. Our little paddleboat is chug, chugging along as though she too was having a good time off it. We pass a number of villages with names too quaint to spell or pronounce properly but they are something like the following, Sto-pe-nor, Co-pe-washo-wo, Cre-voy-a, and many others.

 

July 20th 1919

"July 20th. This is Sunday (at least I think so) somehow one forgets what particular day each one is for they are all just alike. We stopped this afternoon to take in wood. In consequence it will be very late before our arrival at Bereznik. Nights are getting much colder.

 

July 21st 1919

"July 21st. [Two dates for July 21st have been entered into the diary, however both entries are included below.]

 

"Arrived at Bereznik at one am. It thus took us 30 hours to do the distance of 120 [possibly 150] miles. This is a busy military and naval centre, numerous craft of all sorts, shapes and sizes are lying on the river. Close to us is the Queen Empress, a paddle steamer rather larger than the London Belle. She is a [clyde?] boat fitted out as a hospital ship. She draws too much water to go further up for the river continues to fall rapidly, neither can she return because of the sandbanks. She will have to remain till the rainy season at the end of August. The large hospital barges are well equipped and very creditable. Aeroplanes and hydroplanes are busy, especially at night when they go off on their bombing expeditions.

 

"News has come to us of a mutiny amongst some Russian troops. They have murdered their officers (13), English and Russian. We hear that most of the mutineers have been killed or captured. Those captured have been brought down to Bereznik.

 

"July 21st. The trial took place today of the mutineers, most of them will be shot tonight.

 

"6.30. Five [could be 5, 10 or 15, or even another number, as it is difficult to read] of the condemned men have been executed on the bank close to us. The weather continues hot during the day but the nights are cold.

 

July 22nd 1919

"July 22nd. A big fire has occurred at the aerodrome, most of the machines have been saved. There is also a large forest fire raging some little distance away. A good many vessels have been stuck in the sandbanks in their endeavours to reach Bereznik. It looks awkward for us too. No mails. Up to date I've only had two from home and three from friends.

 

July 23rd 1919

"July 23rd. Went ashore today. Bought goods from NACB.

 

July 24th 1919

"July 24th. My surgeon has been temporarily transferred to SS Courier. I'm to go with him. We are to go to Troitsa, the most advanced fighting line, 40 miles further up the river, for sick and wounded. Started at 2.30. There are many channels up this section of the river but now that the water is so low there is only one navigable. In some parts the river must be 3 to 4 miles wide. Great sandbanks 10 to 20 feet thick and from – to 1 mile in width stretch across the river. When the flood time comes all these banks are covered and the largest vessels can come up. There must be 40 to 50 feet of water when the river is in flood. It is a fine sight in early spring. Distant villages and the inevitable pair of churches are very frequent. The churches are always in pairs, generally one steeple green and gold and the other brown. We passed the wreck of a Bolo gunboat, which was sunk by shellfire from one of our monitors. Lying on the sands on our right some distance further on are the remains of a British hydroplane just like a bird with broken wings. Its occupants escaped without injury. This part of the river is not so beautiful or interesting as the Pinega River. On either side miles and miles of sand, in the far distance there are some big forests.

 

"We pass two paddle steamers, their superstructures just above water. They are the Sword Dance and Fandango both used as mine sweepers and gunboats. Both struck mines and sunk. The water here is much deeper. We also passed the remains of an aeroplane smashed up through engine trouble. Troitsa was reached at 11 o'clock.

 

July 25th 1919

"July 25th. Early this morning we took aboard a number from the hospital barge 335. Also several cot cases from HMS Hyderabad. It will be a long time before there is enough water to float this gunboat down, although there is plenty of water here there are too many shallows between here and Archangel. Probably it will be the end of August before she comes down. The return trip to Bereznik was commenced at 8.30am. We stopped at Tulgas to take on patients from the hospital barge there and also to bunker. Went ashore here and gathered a nice lot of 'makinas' (raspberries). A short distance inland the country is apparently very fertile. Left Tulgas at 10.15, reaching Bereznik at 3.30. Disembarked our patients on to barge 332, the surgeon and myself rejoining the SS Smaillie.

 

July 26th 1919

"July 26th. Not much doing.

 

July 27th 1919

"July 27th. Various rumours about evacuation also of a final stint of our troops at Troitsa before turning things over to Russian troops. We hear of the probability of a Bolo attack on Bereznik. General Ironside with his staff transferred to Archangel, General Jackson's brigade taking their place. Had a delightful stroll through the meadows, woods and villages close by. The peculiar methods of Russian agriculture are very interesting. Potatoes are not planted in straight rows but all over the ground, each plant being earthed up by itself. Wild flowers are very beautiful. Forget-me-nots, Marguerites, Cornflowers etc reminding one of the country at home. In the village there was quite an amusing scene. The YMCA manager was trying to teach a crowd of boys how to play football. The youngsters had no boots on and they were playing on a rough road covered with wood chippings, but they got on very well.

 

July 28th 1919

"July 28th. Received orders to go down stream about 80 miles to a stranded hospital barge and evacuate her patients and staff to Archangel. Left at 7.30. Reached the barge at 6pm and left at 6.30pm passing HMS Glow-worm at 7pm. Our skipper not understanding did not stop when ordered by the Glow-worm's commander who sent a steam pinnace after us and threatened to sink us. We returned. Humble apologies were made to Captain Green who cursed us very heartily in real British fashion. Took a patient (Russian officer) off this boat.

 

July 29th 1919

"Reached Ust Pinega at 7pm next morning. We had a good number of sick off the barge here leaving for Archangel at 9am. (It has been a very, very cold night. I had been on watch through the night. Took on wood at 4am). Our little boat is quite full this trip and I find it hard work to feed them all. No provision is made for cooking and I shall be glad to reach Archangel, which will probably be 5 o'clock.

 

"Arrived at 6, and disembarked the officers at Somalic quay, then proceeded to the Garth Castle with two sick naval ratings, afterwards to Solombola with remaining patients returning to Somalic quay at 11 o'clock.

 

July 30th 1919

"July 30th. Took on stores at Somalic 18 shed. Crossed over to the Edinburgh Castle, London Belle and the berthed alongside Sabordine quay. Bought goods from NACB down the Troitska prospect. Also got some goods from the Red Cross.

 

July 31st 1919

"July 31st. Went to the Edinburgh Castle again for surgeons luggage, one doctor and two sick berth ratings for X4 lighter at Ust Pinega. Also stopped at the SS Aro for stores. Started for Ust Pinega at 3.30. Stopped for wood at 10 o'clock.

 

August 1st 1919

"Reached Ust Pinega at 5am on the 1st August. Stayed here till 2 o'clock. Heavy rains both yesterday and today. Flies, mosquitoes etc were exceedingly troublesome. Proceeded up the river at 2pm. Went ashore for wood at 5pm. The country here is beautiful, I wandered in the forest discovering some new specimens of ferns and flowers. This is certainly the most delightful spot among the many lovely places I've been in since arriving in North Russia.

 

"Tried our first steak pudding today and congratulated ourselves on a decided success. I also tried what to me was a new method of roasting meat that is to boil it in lard. This sounds paradoxical nevertheless it is certainly a splendid method of roasting meat. It takes less time, makes it more tender, preserves the flavour and retains the juice. The lard is not wasted it can be used again. We all enjoyed it immensely.

 

"There was a most glorious sunset tonight. It was far more exquisite than any painting. The colours, the reflection in the still waters of the wide river, the quaint houses with the dark forests on either side for a framework made a scene beautiful beyond description. Momentous developments are expected any day. Have just heard that a Ching is to be shot tonight for attempting to murder his officers.

 

August 2nd 1919

"August 2nd. Reached the Glow-worm at 4.30am and put one rating aboard whom we picked up at Ust Pinega. Proceeded to X 170, which has been stranded for about 3 weeks. Got alongside at 5.30 am delivered some letters etc resuming our journey at 6am. We have about 75 miles in front of us before reaching Bereznik. There was heavy rain again today.

 

August 3rd 1919

"Berthed alongside HC4 at 2am on August 3rd. When at Bereznik the previous week we were entertained every afternoon watching the performances of a Russian flying officer. He did some marvellous flying, looping the loop etc. During the war with Germany this officer had 50 German machines to his credit. We deeply regret to receive the news today that he has just been killed. His machine got out of control and crashed to the ground.

 

"During the evening I saw a most beautiful sight, the reflection of a very brilliant rainbow arching the river from bank to bank. It was reflected in the water making a complete circle. Those who appreciate beauty and colour had a rare treat.

 

August 4th 1919

"August 4th. There was a very violent storm today. Our little sick bay and sleeping quarters were flooded. After the rain I spent a busy four hours nailing tin on the roof to cover the holes burnt by the sparks from the funnel. Cap covers, coats, shirts etc have suffered a similar fate from the red-hot cinders (of course we could not nail tin on them). Another flying machine accident occurred today. One machine crashed down into another that was just getting ready to fly. After smashing this it continued its work of destruction by finishing off another machine that fell a few days previously it then smashed itself to pieces.

 

"The sunset tonight was very exquisite. For a night and a day I've had a very bad attack of ptomaine poisoning. Many cases have come under my care for treatment suffering from this complaint but this is my first personal acquaintance with it. My sympathies go out to any one who has an attack. No pain accompanies it but the itching is simply awful. Rest is out of the question completely.

 

August 5th 1919

"August 5th. Better tonight. Hope to get some sleep. Nothing doing.

 

August 6th 1919

"August 6th. It is still very quiet.

 

August 7th 1919

"August 7th. Heavy rains. The river is gradually rising. Fighting is getting more intense. Many wounded coming in from Troitsa. Constant rumours about evacuation.

 

August 8th 1919

"August 8th. The superstructure of our boat has been removed today to enable us to tow some barges up the river. We are taking one barge some distance up so that soldiers on another stranded barge may be taken off. We are then to proceed to Troitsa. Left Bereznik at 5pm.

 

August 9th 1919

"After a very wet uncomfortable night we reached Troitsa at 8am on August 9th and berthed along SS Courier. The Officers [?] and I were transferred to this boat and my mate remained on the Smaillie to look after the stores. Heavy rains. There is some prospect now of the bigger ships getting down. I believe we are evacuating Troitsa after a big stint either today or tomorrow.

 

August 10th 1919

"August 10th. The forward movement was begun at 11am today (Sunday). Heavy bombardment of the Bolo positions by our monitors, these cooperated with the artillery ashore. Some of the 6in shells fell close to the barges. One struck just forward of 334 and another aft. They fell very thick around the monitors. But fortunately there were no casualties. One very heroic deed was performed by some sailors and PO in a small boat. A floating mine was coming down the river dead onto one of the hospital barges. These men in the boat got between it and the barge with the consequence that they were blown up. The lives of many sick and wounded were saved by this plucky act.

 

"During the afternoon the monitors went further up the river, the gunfire increasing in intensity. About 3 o'clock a big fire was started in the village of Selzo [Sel'tso]. I had a good view of the operation having to go close up to the firing line. At 7pm gunfire became much heavier and as the evening wore on assumed gigantic proportions. Latest reports state that all is going well. In spite of the high wind and continuous downpour of rain, which is quite tropical in character, our hydroplanes and airplanes are very busy returning again and again for further supplies of bombs. All the hospital barges are moored higher up the river to receive casualties, which are heavy. The fighting is very stiff. Most of it is amongst the swamps and forests. The church at Troitsa just opposite the Hyderabad, (where we are berthed) has been repeatedly struck by shells and bullets. On one tower the cross is only held in position by one stay. It is most remarkable seeing that all has been shot away.

 

"10pm - Firing has ceased for the time being. Seltzo is burning furiously. The army ashore is advancing rapidly. It has been quite an exciting day. A great number of 'reba' (fish), are floating down the river killed and stunned by the explosions of shells in the water.

 

August 11th 1919

"August 11th. Excellent progress has been made by the troops. Several villages captured. Many prisoners are coming along the riverbanks, about 2000 reported up to 11am. Our casualties are numerous but nothing in comparison to the Bolo's. The British have been using gas shells and numbers of the enemy have come in blinded (temporarily). Prisoners are still coming in, amongst them some women wearing bandoliers and carrying rifles. A continuous line of droskies with wounded are coming along the banks. Two Bolo monitors have been captured by scooters and one sunk by gunfire. One of our minesweepers was sunk through striking a mine this afternoon. The British officer and crew were drowned. The rain today has been exceptionally heavy. We loaded up with wounded at 6pm. Many of them badly knocked about. Our troops have lost a lot killed. One company was cut up entirely, very few escaping. More prisoners are arriving. Among the wounded on board our packet is a little boy and a girl of about 16. Both hit by shrapnel in feet and legs. They are from Seltzo. Our boat reached Bereznik at 11pm, transferring the load of patients to NT 332, the Michigan and HC4. I was now sent for duty on 332.

 

August 13th 1919

"August 13th. My last little boat, SS Smaillie came down the river today towing the hospital barge 345 which had on board 160 wounded. Amongst them were a number of Bolos. Much rain today. SS Volshannon took several of our patients to Archangel.

 

August 14th 1919

"August 14th. More wounded brought aboard today several of them being Bolos (2 officers) very badly hurt. Talking with several of our fellows who were right in the firing line I learnt that the fighting was much more severe than was expected and the prisoners more numerous (several thousands). The wounded Bolos seemed very glad to be on our barge. They appear to be half starved and ragged and dirty. They are agreeably surprised at the kindly treatment given them. It was a treat too to have a comfortable bed to lie upon. The river is rising steadily in consequence of the heavy rains. Bolos have been driven back a considerable distance, about 50 miles.

 

August 15th 1919

"August 15th. An aeroplane came over this morning very much damaged. One of its occupants was hanging over the side either killed or badly hurt. Several of our fellows were up before the commander this afternoon for firing rifles on the right bank of the river during the previous night causing some uneasiness and consternation among the inhabitants of a little village close handy. There was a deal of excitement also on the HC4. Two of their number had gone into this village and were arrested. They did not regain their liberty till a SBL officer appeared. In their rage they went over to the other side and obtained some Mills' bombs. It was their intention to return to the village and bomb the people. On the return journey they called at the HC4 to try and get some of the other fellows to go with them. Fortunately the captain got wind of this little expedition and he promptly stopped it. If their intention had been carried out things would have been very awkward for lots of the people are not too friendly as it is. NT barge Michigan cleared of patients preparatory to going down river. We evacuated 23 of our sick on to the Voligshannon.

 

August 16th 1919

"August 16th. There were several operations both yesterday and today. A large number of sick and wounded arrived.

 

August 17th 1919

"August 17th. Transferred 28 patients to the SS Courier for shipment to Archangel. Very busy now so not much time for writing.

 

August 18th 1919

"August 18th. Moved alongside HC4. Apparently the officers have got the wind up anticipating a Bolo attack.

 

August 19th 1919

"August 19th. The HC4 is being lightened as much as possible. All the iron bedsteads have been taken down and fitted on our barge. As much of her superstructure and surplus stores etc have also been taken off. She draws 18ins less water. The river has also risen. Today a fresh job has been given to me. I'm put in charge of the wardroom and also have 4 officers to look after. The evacuation of Bereznik is proceeding rapidly.

 

August 20th 1919

"August 20th. Many barges are coming down from Troitsa loaded with troops, guns, mules and stores.

 

August 21st 1919

"August 21st. Heavy rains for two days. Nearly all the craft have gone down. Things that cannot be taken away are being burnt. There are large bonfires every day. Some of the Russian soldiers became very truculent threatening mutiny. They were all disarmed today.

 

August 22nd 1919

"August 22nd. Another airman killed at Troitsa today, his machine crashing down into the river.

 

August 23rd 1919

"August 23rd. There have been some most exquisite rainbow scenes for 9 days in succession, very beautiful to see stretching from bank to bank of the wide river making a perfect archway and today the beauty was increased as one of our airman came flying down from Troitsa and passed beneath the centre of the gigantic arch. The rainbows were always in pairs.

 

August 24th 1919

"August 24th. Lord Setterington (the Duke of Richmond's heir) died from gunshot wounds at 8 o'clock this morning on board HC4.

 

August 25th 1919

"August 25th. Today was devoid of incident till 11pm when the most disastrous event of the Northern campaign occurred. I was lying in my bunk reading when there came a terrible explosion apparently right over the barge. I thought the Bolos were firing 6-inch shells and had got the exact range. Getting dressed I had just reached the top deck when a louder explosion occurred and a rain of shrapnel fell on the roof. Then followed a terrific burst, the whole sky was lit up. Shrapnel fell like a mighty hailstorm and I saw an ammunition barge blown up and sink. All the windows on our port side were blown out and several on the starboard side. The full force of the disaster fell upon the monitor Glow-worm whose commander had taken his ship alongside the burning barge in an attempt to extinguish the blaze. He surely could not have known the nature of the cargo and yet he ought to have known. Close to the burning barge was a big iron lighter loaded with about 500 tons of cordite, lyddite, 6-inch shells and small arm ammunition. If this had blown up there would not have been left a ship in harbour, we should all have been wiped out. It was an anxious time. One 6-inch shell fell right into a case of cordite passed through singeing the cordite and yet did not explode it. Not till next day was it known how narrow had been our escape. As to the Glow-worm (which had only come up the day before to cover our retreat) she was simply riddled with shell and shrapnel. About 40 holes in the port side of her hull, the funnel was just like a huge sieve, her bridge and masts were shot away and her guns damaged. But the worst part of the business was the loss of life – 23 of her brave fellows were killed outright. The commander was wounded along with many others. As the Glow-worm drew off and came alongside her sister ship HMS Cockchafer she rammed her on the starboard side tearing a big rent below the water line and another larger one just above. The next morning a terrible sight met our gaze. Several of the men were simply torn to pieces and all were badly smashed. The doctor was killed and a flying corps captain. It was a sad sight to see them all lying side by side. A few hours before all were jolly and well and now out of a crew of 75 only 25 were left unhurt.

 

August 26th 1919

"August 26th. The commander died at 2 o'clock without regaining consciousness, his wounds were terrible. Two others died towards night. I went on board the Glow-worm. I'm not likely to forget the spectacle very soon.

 

August 27th 1919

"August 27th. Two more passed away. The funeral of the men took place today, 27 lying side by side in one long grave. The officers were buried separately. All the officers on the ship were killed. The Queen Empress left today at 10 to 11 for Archangel.

 

August 28th 1919

"August 28th. We started down the river at 12 noon. As we passed the poor old Glow-worm and the Cockchafer what remained of the crews lined up and cheered us.

 

August 29th 1919

"On the 29th we reached the bar (about 75 miles down river) at 2pm. During the morning the Hyderabad, Cockchafer, Glow-worm and Humber passed us. At one o'clock we sighted the poor Queen Empress piled up on the mud. Understand that there is not much hope for her as the water is falling again and the tugs cannot move her.

 

August 30th 1919

"August 30th. My old friend SS Smaillie came alongside. She has been taken over by the military and will proceed to Troitsa or Varga. The Courier too arrived today.

 

August 31st 1919

"August 31st. Rumours of mutiny and stiff fighting towards Varga. We are now lying off Siscoe. This is quite a large village with some big houses. There is a battery of 6 mountain howitzers stationed here. The place is full of English soldiers.

September 1st 1919

September 1st. We hear that a company of soldiers have proceeded to Emetzaks (14 miles distant) with 4 guns because of a mutiny amongst the soldiers of two Russian regiments stationed there.

 

September 2nd 1919

"September 2nd. SS Lord Morten reached us at 6.30 this morning and most of our patients were transferred to her. I had a very enjoyable afternoon ashore, exploring the country around. The people are still hay making. Left Siscoe at 12 noon. Anchored for the night at 9.15. There was a most remarkable phenomenon visible tonight. The moon showed up like a great conflagration, it seemed to lessen somewhat and at last resolved itself into an immense red ball.

 

September 4th 1919

"September 4th. Resumed our journey at 4.30 for Archangel reaching Ust Pinega at 1.30. The weather is glorious and after a tremendous storm the sun shines out in full splendour again. The river is very pretty or at least the banks are on either side. We have now about 70 miles to go before reaching Archangel. Most of the fellows are anxious to get there and secure a place on one of the first boats going home. We are travelling at the rate of 5 to 6 miles an hour. The Lord Morten met us just before we reached the bar. We were quite excited when she signalled that there were mails aboard for us. When the mails came there were 5 letters, 2 parcels and newspapers for me. Proceeding we reached Archangel at 5pm and went alongside the Garth Castle transferring all our English patients to her. We lay alongside till this morning.

 

September 6th 1919

"September 6th. [entered in the diary as August] When we crossed over to Somalic quay, we evacuated the remaining sick and wounded. Amongst both English and Russian there are some hopeless cases. What our next move will be we are anxious to know. Fifteen ratings are to be drafted to the King Edward in the morning. There has been some anti-aircraft firing today. Rumours are many and various. Bolos are supposed to be about 30 miles away. No one is to be allowed ashore unarmed, murders are frequent. Anyway I went through the city today and all was well. I'm staying on this boat at present. I went inside one of the churches this afternoon. It was most magnificent. All the work, panels etc were overlaid with gold and jewels. The paintings and figures representative of Bible stories, persons, scenes and incidents too were resplendent in polished gold and precious stones. Watching some of those that entered one could understand something of the power that priest craft has upon the national life. Those who entered bowed themselves right to the ground, some even crawling in, each one crossing them selves continuously. The churches are very numerous. Every short distance there is one. Indeed this is a city of churches. The lady who looked after this particular church goes by the name of Mrs or Madam Popoff. We had quite a long conversation together. Her knowledge of the English language was very good. Her husband was Captain Popoff. They had been to England several times. Visiting London, Newcastle etc staying two or three months each time. Captain Popoff has been killed by Bolos. They have 3 children, the two boys being in the Russian Army.

 

September 7th 1919

"September 7th. [entered in the diary as August] Fifteen of our company were sent to the SS King Edward before leaving for home. Three barge loads of Russian troops arrived from Ust Pinega and lay alongside and also a barge with field guns and about 100 tons of ammunition. After being so close to the one that blew up and having so close a shave we have no great love for ammunition barges. This evening it has all been unloaded onto the quay but we are still alongside of it.

 

September 8th 1919

"September 8th. [entered in the diary as August] We are packing stores preparatory to going alongside the SS Aro and transferring them. This has been a real stormy day, a perfect deluge of rain. When it does rain in Russia why it is wet and no mistake.

 

September 9th 1919

"September 9th. [entered in the diary as August] Had a busy day in Archangel buying goods for the officers. Also visited the P.N.T. Office in search of letters. I never saw such indescribable confusion, letters and parcels all over the place. No wonder our letters do not reach us.

 

September 10th 1919

"September 10th. [entered in the diary as August] Another stormy day. Discharged a great quantity of foodstuffs. A big ship coming alongside almost smashed our barge. The sides were stove in also our lifeboat had one side stove in. Thousands of logs have broken loose and are floating up river on a strong tide and a heavy wind. Not only is it a loss of a big fortune but they create a serious danger to small boats, steam pinnaces etc. Everything seems to be going adrift in Archangel and indeed all over Russia. The people are greatly upset because the British are clearing out. As soon as we evacuate the Bolos will come in. Then will commence a terrible time for the people. I'm afraid massacres will be a daily occurrence, and also German influence is sure to operate strongly against right and order. There are dark days ahead for Russia. The winter is setting in now. Tonight is very cold and wet.

 

September 11th 1919

"September 11th. Disturbing rumours continually reach us of the critical position of some of our troops. The evacuation is proceeding rapidly; many troops and refugees have come down the river today. A very big transport is lying close to us. She is the SS Vedic. She towers high above us. It is intended for her to take refugees to Hull for trans-shipment to Odessa. The harbour is full of shipping.

 

September 12th 1919

"September 12th. Another very stormy day. A most interesting sight was to see the hundreds of refugees with their personal belongings coming into the compounds. One long string of droskys loaded with all sorts of refugee's property lined the quayside. There must have been at least 150, and then to see the refugees themselves passing up the gangway into the great Vedic. A long, long trail indeed as though there were no end. It took nearly all day for the procession to pass into the ship. Besides this lot there were about 300 Russian soldiers. They all have an idea that they are going to stay in England but they are doomed to disappointment. Had two letters today. We understand that the last mail is leaving for England tomorrow.

 

September 13th 1919

"September 13th. The winter seems to have set in. Each day is cold, wet and stormy. We learn that stiff fighting is going on up the river opposite Tulgas also about 100 miles up the River Yempsa. This river branches off from the Dvina or rather flows into Dvina about 150 miles from Archangel.

 

September 14th-18th 1919

"September 14th, 15th, 16th, 17th, 18th. All these days have had the usual plethora of rumours. A good number of Bolo prisoners have passed through under charge of Russian guards. Fighting is more general along all the fronts close to Archangel. The Bolos entered Bereznik on Tuesday but were driven out by a party of Blue jackets landed from one of the monitors. We have only two hospital boats up the river now and they are expected down tomorrow. Most of the big transports will be leaving during the next week. I am to be drafted to the SS Aro and from there perhaps to the Baltic. Very white sharp frosts occur most nights now and it is difficult to keep warm in bed even with four blankets. These are very busy days, such large quantities of stores to be packed. We are finally giving up the barge on Monday next the 22nd.

 

September 19th 1919

"September 19th. Very many troops have come down the line leaving things in the hands of the Russians. I hope they will show more pluck than they have done previously. A large number of civilians are drilling every evening for the defence of Archangel. Several transports loaded with Russian troops left Saborne quay this afternoon for Bereznik. Great crowds gathered to bid them farewell. They left with parting cheers, the music from a band and much waving of handkerchiefs etc. The soldiers themselves singing the usual Russian songs which consist of about 6 notes. This evening there was a beautiful display of Northern lights. The best I've seen so far. They were like immense waving curtains scintillating with exquisite colours changing very rapidly. The display lasted about an hour. (Those who read these notes must excuse the scribble because of the difficulties under which they are done).

 

September 20th 1919

"September 20th. Today has been exceptionally busy. The NACB stores are closing tomorrow and the officers wanted supplies, especially of whiskey and brandy so I had to go and see what could be done. First of all the vodka NACB stores were tried. This meant a long trip down the Troitsky prospect. A blank was drawn here so the next move was to go to Bakaritza which meant a ferry trip across the Dvina taking about an hour. Arriving there I saw an immense fish called a Sea Cow. It had been killed by bombs. It measured 14ft long by 3ft girth. In trying to haul it on to the quay the weight snapped a 3-inch hawser so a steam crane was brought alongside and hauled it out.

 

"It was at Bakaritza in 1916 that the disastrous explosion occurred which destroyed the largest Russian munitions works causing a great loss of life. I saw some of the effects of the explosion, also the great mound under which are buried some hundreds of those who were killed (about 500). Close to the quay the divers are still working getting up the sunken wreckage, machinery etc which was blown up with the warships lying alongside. The upper parts are still to be seen of a big battleship, which was sunk. Bakaritza is an enormous system of railway lines and store sheds. These are very large nearly all of them rebuilt since 1916. Of course there are dozens of sheds still to be erected. Everything is constructed of timber. The roads are made of wood. Many of the wharves are just simply built up by stacking logs of wood one upon another till they cease to sink and so a landing stage is made.

 

"My mission to Bakaritza was only partially successful. I just managed to get 6 bottles of whiskey; this occupied my time from 9am till 3pm. The SS Olitzka came down tonight towing the NT 245. This leaves one hospital boat, the Courier, up the river.

 

"Quite an exciting affair has just occurred. A motor driver took a wrong turn and drove his machine over the side of the quay between the quay and the barge. It hung there in peril but at last another motor got a tow rope on and we got some long poles as levers and finally managed to get it back into safety very little the worse. The driver had a severe shaking and a very narrow escape from drowning.

 

September 21st 1919

"September 21st. Sunday but it was scarcely like a Sabbath day. This being our last full day on 332 everything has to be washed up. All the officers' things cleaned. Surplus gear was packed etc. The Courier came alongside during the evening. The Bolos raked her with shrapnel just before they reached Bereznik. Four of the sick berth staff were wounded. A barge loaded with troops was also fired up with machine guns. Eight were killed and a few wounded. Two of our monitors which could not be removed (as they drew too much water) were blown up after being dismantled. The NT 245 has been towed a few miles up the river to bring in the few remaining soldiers. Some trouble is expected in Archangel. Barbed wire defenses are being erected across the entrances to the landing stages and sentries posted at a number of places.

 

September 22nd 1919

"September 22nd. We are saying "dasfidania" to NT 332, everything possible has been packed but still lots of things are being left behind or dumped. Wouldn't the ratepayers' hearts ache if they did but know what is thrown away? What a revelation? We leave NT 332 with some feelings of regret. All the ships company has been distributed to various homeward bound boats. Some to the Czar, some to the Garth Castle, others to Queen Empress and two of us to the Aro (Seaton and myself). This is a special favour granted to us by the commander as a mark of approval. We got on board at 5pm. We travel as saloon passengers, have stewards to wait on us, and a very nice cabin to ourselves. Our boat leaves for Murmansk on Thursday. The last leave ashore is on Wednesday 24th.

 

September 23rd 1919

"September 23rd. I went ashore today for a final visit to Archangel. Although there is an element of danger surrounding us yet after all we are somewhat sorry to leave Archangel for we feel that the place will be occupied by the Bolshevicks and many excesses committed. The people generally too are sorry for they fear the future. It has been a profitable time for them, our fellows have spent the greater part of their money in various ways and the city is richer for our visit. Yet it is to be feared that much distress will follow after our departure. The Russian troops are most unreliable. It remains to be seen whether the citizen army has any more stamina.

 

"The weather is getting very cold and the first appearance of ice has been seen by some of us who get up early enough. We don't mind the cold so much on the Aro because our cabins are nicely warmed with steam pipes. We are very fortunate in getting a passage on so big and comfortable a ship. All the people aboard are kind and most anxious for our comfort giving us a hearty welcome with one exception and that is the chief sick berth steward a fellow named Fugelir a most detestable cad who objects to us because he is an active service rating and we are MMRs. As anyone can guess he is altogether a contemptible thing apart from the fact of his incompetents. We do not desire his company being saloon passengers and quite happy.

 

September 24th 1919

"September 24th. Two of the river transports have been taken to the White Sea today and blown up. It was considered that the expense of taking them home would be greater than their value apart from the fact of their unseaworthiness. It can scarcely be said that these paddle steamers have justified the expenditure. Apart from the upkeep I understand that the fitting out of the nine hospital carriers amounted to £2,000,000. Some of them did practically nothing. None have done a great deal. It has been a mismanaged affair altogether.

 

September 25th 1919

"September 25th. Weather cold and wet. All the vessels have discharged their surplus food supplies to us. The barges have been finished with. The staff being transferred, to the Czar. This vessel, the Czar, is alongside the quay today taking off the troops from Smolny barracks. All the ships will be gone by Sunday. The hatches have been battened down on our boat and we sail this afternoon. Dasfidania Archangel. When next I see you may it be under happier circumstances.

 

"Anchor was weighed at 1.50pm. We left our berth at 2pm (having taken the pilot on board the previous night), and proceeded down the river at half speed. The sun was shining gloriously after a very wet morning. Archangel looked really beautiful from the river. Distance certainly lends enchantment in this instance. The golden spires, domes and minarets were glistening in the sunlight. The trees with all the beauty of autumn tints, the whitewashed houses and green slopes all contribute to make a picture of entrancing beauty. Disenchantment awaits those who walk its streets. Passing down the river the scene on both banks was lovely with autumn glory excepting as we passed Maimasea Island, which presented an awful picture of desolation after the terrible fire in July. The gaunt walls of the burnt out factories looked awfully forlorn, the ruins still smouldering; long stretches of quays which recently were covered with tremendous stacks of timber but now nothing but smoking ashes remain. Acres upon acres of ruins representing millions of roubles and this destruction the work of Russians themselves who have been influenced by Bolshevism.

 

"At 6pm we dropped the pilot at the mouth of the Dvina and now we are out in the White Sea en route for Murmansk.

 

September 26th 1919

"September 26th. Arrived at Murmansk at 11.30 anchoring some distance above Alexandrovsk. There is one very amusing incident, which I had almost forgotten to relate. Frequently (whilst lying off Archangel) boats would come alongside with various articles of produce, which the natives brought to exchange for flour, tea, sugar, butter etc. They would bring cabbage, milk, eggs, and live chickens. Two of the men skulkered some flour and other articles for some fowls. They reckoned on getting some eggs. A nice little run was made for the fowls and the two men in question got orders for new laid eggs. Early the next morning they were awakened by a lot of crowing. The two marines were disappointed to find that their hens were cockerels. Of course all the ships company had the news by this time and the two men were mercilessly chaffed about the eggs that were ordered. The poor birds did not live many minutes after this.

 

September 27th 1919

"September 28th. [presumably the 27th - see September 30th] The Garth Castle, Hyderabad and Baccus came in this morning. The two former stayed the day then proceeded homewards. No information has reached us yet as to how long we remain here.

 

September 28th 1919

"September 29th. [presumably the 28th - see September 30th] The admirals' yacht has gone ashore some little distance astern of our boat. Several tugs are endeavouring to get her off, so far without success. Weather very stormy and cold. A great number of vessels have come in during the last 24 hours. Archangel must be quite evacuated by this time. We are having a good time on this packet. Nice, warm, cosy cabin, good food and plenty of it. Our companions too are sociable and jolly. We have varied our routine today by rifle practice using bottles as targets. I sank two first shot in each instance. Not so bad. We hope to have big gun practice when we get outside again. Lewis gun practice as well.

 

September 29th 1919

"September 30th. [presumably the 29th - see next entry] HMS Cyclops came in today and various other craft from Archangel completing the evacuation. Early this morning there was a magnificent display of Northern lights. It was beautiful in the extreme. After taking 32 officers aboard we sailed at 5.45 for England. In consequence of this unexpected arrival of officers and the shortage of staff I offered my services as a wardroom steward, which were very welcome.

 

September 30th 1919

"September 31st. [obviously the 30th!] Weather very stormy. Strong head wind. Ship only making nine knots. Sleeping on the poop deck I feel every throb of the screw especially so when the vessel pitches and the stern rises high out of the water. The screw then revolves at a fearful rate shaking the ship from stem to stern.

 

October 1st 1919

"October 1st. Another stormy day. Many of us feel very seasick. Fortunately I've been able to keep going but lots of the officers who came aboard at Murmansk had to keep to their bunks. North Cape was sighted at 6.30 and here we got the roughest sea and heavy snowstorms. We could see that North Cape and surrounding hills and mountains were covered thick with snow.

 

October 2nd 1919

"October 2nd. Weather better today. At noon we could make out the Norwegian coast, snow covered and wintry. We shall follow this coast all the way down and then cross over to Lerwick in the Shetlands. Another fine display of Northern lights this evening. Not so cold tonight.

 

October 3rd 1919

"October 3rd. Expect to reach the Shetlands on Sunday at noon that is if the weather holds good. Making good progress.

 

October 4th 1919

"October 4th. Weather altered for worse during the night. Sea very rough and the boat is pitching a great deal. At times her stern is 30ft out of the water and then as the propeller races the whole ship seems as though she would break in pieces. Sighted the SS Cap Verde about 5 miles distant, apparently having as rough a time of it as we. Wind moderating a little and the swell not quite so bad.

 

October 5th 1919

"October 5th. Sea much calmer but the ship rolls a lot and it is difficult work to keep the cups of coffee and plates of soup from sliding right across the deck or down the necks of those sitting at table.

 

October 6th 1919

"October 6th. Sea rough, strong headwind. In consequence of having the 32 extra officers on board fresh provisions are running short so we shall be obliged to put into Lerwick. Ship is pitching a great deal.

 

"Reached Lerwick at one pm. The officers went ashore at 5 o'clock. I went at 6.15. Lerwick is a nice clean little town. Most of the inhabitants apparently are well to do. My mate and I strolled around the town after which we went to the little picture house. The film on the screen was John Halifax, Gentleman. It was quite good. Coming from there to the duty boat we looked into the recreation room in connection with the 'Mission to seamen' and I was surprised to see an old Newportonian, Mr Greenshields. Also at the bar was an SBR who was at Hasler at the same time as myself.

 

"The duty boat left the quay at 10.30. Nearly all the officers were drunk. Certainly everyone had too much to drink. My mate and I out of about 40 who went ashore were the only two quite sober.

 

October 7th 1919

"October 7th. Ship got under way at 7am. Sea beautifully calm. Making splendid headway. Boat doing 11 knots. During the afternoon we had a sight, which is rarely seen in these days. We passed at very close quarters a full rigged ship with all her canvas spread. It is years ago since I saw so beautiful a sight. She was a vessel as big as ours with her white canvas filling with the breeze she looked very majestic. At 8pm we are making splendid progress off the Scotch coast.

 

October 8th 1919

"October 8th. Arrived off Newcastle at one pm, staying just long enough to take on board the pilot. Proceeding on our way at 1.30 we were making 11 knots with a fair wind. Towards night the sea became very rough, the ship rolling and pitching more than it had done during any part of the voyage.

 

October 9th 1919

"October 9th. We entered the mouth of the Thames at noon and anchored off Greenhithe at 2.30. It was a great relief to have a quiet steady ship again.

 

October 10th 1919

"October 10th. Proceeded further up the Thames and then had to return to Tilbury. There was a lot of grumbling amongst the officers also amongst the ships crew at the delay. They are all so anxious to get to their homes.

 

"Arrived off Tilbury at 3.30 and anchored. At last a tug came alongside for the officers and there ensued a scene of wild confusion. Such a tremendous lot of luggage for the 32 officers. We were heartily glad to see the back of them. My opinion of British military officers was never very high; it is considerably, very, very considerably lower now. Uncouth, untidy, lazy without even the first principles of gentlemanly behaviour etc. and their language and conversation disgusting.

 

October 12th 1919

"October 12th. During the night we were nearly rammed by a barge. It just missed our bows and ran across our anchor cables. She stuck there till this morning and was then towed off by a tug. It seems strange to hear the church bells in the distance. Although this is a Sunday yet it does not seem like it and I shall be very, very glad to be ashore again and enjoy a real English Sabbath day. For several months now I've not been to a place of worship and it is a sad loss.

 

October 13th-14th 1919

"October 13th and 14th. Quiet days. Lying out in the Thames there is not much happening. The King's yacht passed close to us with his Majesty aboard. During the past night I was awakened by a bang close to my cabin. Looking out I saw that a big ship had dragged her anchor and swung round on us. It caused some excitement. Fortunately very little damage was done. We seem rather in the way here.

 

October 15th 1919

"October 15th. Workmen are busy unfixing our big gun, which will be removed tomorrow.

 

October 16th-17th 1919

"October 16th and 17th. Nothing doing.

 

[The end]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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